Posted on Thursday 5 April 2007
March 25th Sunday morning
Started the engine and found that water was not spitting out of the exhaust which meant our water pump belt was broke. This was one of several delays to come. Since Jenn still had a cell phone that worked we all got to call our friends and family to let them know we’d be offshore for four days to go to Grenada. Since it was Sunday the marine store was closed, so we figured we weren’t going to leave until Monday and we might as well get comfy here. Later that night, we find out the one marine store doesn’t have our belt and we’d have to use the emergency belt. So first thing Monday morning we are at the marina office getting checked out and putting the emergency belt on. We cast off the dock lines around 9:30 am.
After we’d cleared the island and made it offshore we had some trouble with James, 2 aluminum rivets broke. This meant we’d have to hand steer for four days and 400 miles, none of us wanted to do that and the rolling seas were not going to allow us to repair. We turned around and made our way to Buck Island, anchored and diagnosed, now came the order of getting supplies. Green Cay Marina prepared a slip for us and Martin the maintenance man let us borrow his rivet gun. After G fixed the steering vane, James (“home, James”) we walked the docks and found a 50′ Columbia “Arawa” for sale, so we called the broker $150,000. We set up an appointment for that night. It was a gorgeous flush deck, sloop rig with an aft cockpit and slept 6, but the sole was rotting and it was all tore apart. What a shame!
Anyway, that night for dinner we tried a place called The Deep End upon suggestion. When we got there it was just past sunset and the atmosphere was dressy casual, we were intimidated by the pricey menu and sheepishly asked our waitress if they had any burgers, “Sure!”, she replied. So we all order the most delicious burgers we have come to eat since Duffy’s Love Shack in St. Thomas! In case you haven’t noticed GR is a serious Burger Expert, we try burgers everywhere!
LET”S TRY THIS AGAIN!
Tuesday morning March 27th
9 am, Overcast morning led to pouring rain as we tossed off the dock lines and headed out for our second try at this journey to Grenada. Gia stayed down below and played while the four of us; GR & me, Jenn and Nate got soaked for roughly 24 hours on and off. At first it was a steady rain, so why bother with foul weather gear? We played charades in our bathing suits and listen to C.C.R. as we took turns at the helm. Hmm, I notice that could be taken the wrong way?! We were in our suits because of the rain people!
For our first night watch we took split shifts of six hours for each couple, which we would alternate into 3 hours per person. GR and I picked the first shift from 6pm – 12- pm, so we suited up in our foul weather gear complete with sweats underneath for warmth as the temperature was significantly dropping as the day went on. It would be an understatement to say we were waterlogged! As soon as we closed the companionway the heavens opened up on us! This was pelting, stinging, sideways up from the ground rain! My first attempt at tacking I lost one of our Lewmar winch handles! It didn’t lock in completely and as I cranked it, it just slowly crept out. When I noticed it, I went to catch it and it dropped down into the depths of Davey Jones locker never to be seen again. I was so disappointed in myself! A winch handle is an imperative item, especially when you only have 2 on-board! So I had to run up to the main mast grab the second handle out of the mast winch and run back. Meanwhile, managing to stay on the boat in the 20 knot gusts and pelting rain, dancing over our 10 foot dinghy strapped down on the deck in bare feet! Hello! Wait, there is MORE! After about 3 hours and 3 tacks, I got my fingers caught in between the winch and the sheet for the head sail. OUCH! It hurt like hell at the time but the next day it was fine! I think I was more scared than anything because of the way my whole body jerked from the sail whipping in the wind and my inability to wrap it into the self tailor in time.
Wednesday March 28th
Morning burst into a glorious, sunny, hot day. It felt great to get dry and sun soaked for a change! Porpoises gave us a show, dancing all around the boat! The emergency belt we put on was breaking every 30 minutes so it was hard to keep the batteries charged. With James, the steering vane, also out of commission we did not want to go any further and decided to pull into the next island. “St. Kitts it is!”
That night G and I did another 6pm- 12pm. We followed the illuminating moon and the constellations that sparkled as we nibbled on our stash of Girl Scout cookies slowly savoring every morsel. That night the wind was so light we were only making 2-3 knots, no good! Around 10 pm G told me to listen for a sound, I thought it sounded like dolphins when they talk to each other, but it was so dark we could see nothing. Hmm? Round midnight we had a hitchhiker, a black bird that hopped along the lifelines. A peaceful night to make up for the treacherous night before. Thank you God.
Thursday March 29th
St. Kitts is a good introduction to the topography of the Leeward islands. Approximately 23 miles long and 5 miles wide it’s a rough 68 square miles. The island’s highest point is 3,792′ Mt. Liamuiga, a dormant volcano that last erupted in 1692. One of the most unique things about the island is that it’s population of monkeys outnumber the humans, 3:1. Originally intended as pets, Green monkeys have inhabited the island for over 400 years, brought by French settlers with their slaves from East Africa. The main export was and still is sugar cane.
As San~San pulls in closer to the island we noticed the rolling emerald hills and vibrant green farms that encompass the landscape. As soon as we anchored, we got the dinghy in the water and got to the dock to clear customs. Our official tells us to come back at 1pm so we walk along tourist row, duty-free shops boasting rum tastings and discounted prices on lots of exciting things. We just want a cold beer!
Along the way Gia in her famous, outgoing way, tells jokes to all the people we meet. Steve turns out to be a local cab driver and offers to give us a tour of the island, something we intended to do. So he gives us his number and we set up a tour for the following day. He then tells us he’ll take us to where the local flavor is for lunch. SWEET!
This meal included; Stewed Mutton (goat), Baked Mac – N – Cheese, Green Bananas, Rice and Beans and Fish Stew too all for $5.00 USD. O yea, the exchange on money here is about $3 East Caribbean to our $1 USD. Another Score! Steve also took us to the local auto parts store to find another belt for the water pump issue.
Friday March 30th
Our tour of St. Kitts started at 9 am. The cab is really a little Suzuki mini-van that locals call a bus. On the bus is “RUFFNECK”, each bus is named according to the driver’s personality or nickname. Lots of men in dreads and the colors for St. Kitts and neighboring Nevis’s flag (Knee-vis) are same as Jamaica’s. Cricket is the national sport and this month happened to be the Cricket World Cup. Carib the local beer has a brewery here, we were unable to get a tour. The streets are lined with trees of mangoes, tamarind and avocados. On the island there are public and private schools, everyone must wear a different uniform according to school and grades. The nursing and veterinary colleges come complete with daycare facilities for student’s children. Historic manor and shop, Caribelle Batik,is an awesome facility that makes beautiful clothing and artistic wall hangings in a unique way, by using wax and a tie-dye like technique. The grounds alone were immaculate and lush. The Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park is an awesome historical site that cannot be missed, I do not have time to recite that pamphlet but in a nutshell www.brimstonehillfortress.org! Steve took us by his family bakery where we got complimentary raisin rolls, DELICIOUS, and 2 loaves of bread. Gia got to meet and hold a real live, 9 month old green monkey! The out island feel is so perfect here, donkey and goats roamed the street as well as pigs and chickens, you can tell that people live and work here. It’s more than just a tourist town! And no perfect untouched island would be complete without a Marriott and golf course, Boo! Anyway, that was our tour! Thanks or joining us!
Look forward to our next entry – Bonfires in St. Kitts and beach bars in Nevis!
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